背包客棧自助旅行論壇
[美洲旅遊好文]【哈瓦那·古巴】【Havana, Cuba】English after Mandarin 義大利藝術評論家Philippe Daver...that only belongs to Cuba. 我的文章出處連結:如果您喜歡這篇故事,可以在這裡找到更多相關故事。無國界旅行故事
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舊 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-03-24, 08:12
【哈瓦那·古巴】【Havana, Cuba】
English after Mandarin


義大利藝術評論家Philippe Daverio說「真正藝術包括不同方位的解讀」,需要具有「模擬兩可性或是不可捉摸性」。我覺得哈瓦那就是這樣一個獨特的城市。作為一個真正的藝術城市,哈瓦那真實體現了那種不可捉摸的面向。
Philippe Daverio, an Italian art critic, says real art includes interpretations from different perspectives and should be ambiguous or unpredictable. I think Havana, as a true city of art, genuinely reflects that unpredictability.






對於古巴的第一印象來自於社會主義風格的哈瓦那機場。外觀有棱有角,活像是隨時會翻身戰鬥的變形金剛。這點又跟注重建築與環境與人文呼應的新未來主義建築不謀而合,就像Zaha Hadid在廣州建造的那兩隻蟾蜍劇院一樣。這麽多的想像與那種所謂的藝術的模擬兩可性恰恰重合。
My first impression of Cuba came from the Havana airport with that strong socialistic flavor. The angular exterior of the terminal looks exactly like one of those Transformer robots who might spring to life and battle at any second. This coincides with the concept of neo-futurism buildings which stresses the link between buildings and their surroundings. A great example is the angular toad-like Guangzhou Opera House. All that imagination accords with the so-called ambiguity of art.
原文載於: 背包客棧自助旅行論壇 https://www.backpackers.com.tw/forum/showthread.php?t=10420951


內部紅色的證照查驗關讓人感覺熱情卻又搭配共產主義的不協調。飛機上座位旁邊的古巴先生嘴裡不時哼著歌曲,機場接駁車和接機計程車上也有動感音樂。我感到困惑。
Inside the terminal is the red immigration cubicles with that yellow tint, which gives a sense of incongruity combining passion with seemingly cold communism. That reminds me of the Cuban guy next to me on the plane who was humming songs all the time. Music can also be found on the boarding gate shuttle as well as the taxi I rode to downtown Havana. I was perplexed.


我問接機的司機英文哪學來的。他說學校裡的外來語文教育中有英文的選項,但不是很受重視。司機又說歐巴馬時代古巴開始轉型經濟準備起飛。可惜目前川普打壓古巴,連房地產都低迷。從路上年輕一代的新潮穿著,我感覺到古巴已不再是舊時代的古巴了。對於古巴一切都還在摸索中。
I asked the cab driver where he learned his English. He replied that English was one of the foreign language options in school, but English was not considered important. He then started to talked about how Obama helped boost Cuba’s economy with the loosened US-Cuban tension. It was unfortunate since Trump swore in and everything had been beaten down including the travel and real estate industries. I could still spot the change from young people’s fashionable outfits. It felt like Cuba was not the old Cuba that I learned from the travel guide. Everything about Cuba was yet to be explored.


哈瓦那絕不是說英文天堂。從找住宿開始,我那卑微的西班牙文就被迫徹徹底底地運轉起來。還好事先下載了估狗翻譯裡的西文選項,加上我確實請過家教老師學習基礎西文發音,這樣勉強能與當地人溝通一下。我也懷疑憑我這樣三腳貓的西文能有什麼本事去解讀這樣一個謎一般的國度?
By all means, Havana is no heaven for English speakers. From the moment I decided to find a casa/guest house on my own, my puny Spanish vocabulary was forced to work hard. (Yeah, I only know about a couple of hundred words. Shame on me!) The good thing is that I downloaded Spanish on my Google Translate in advance. Plus I hired a private tutor to learn Spanish phonics. I somehow managed to communicate with the locals. Sometimes, I doubted how I was going to open up this mysterious nation with my lousy Spanish.


入住後第一件事情就是憑著以往旅行經驗慣例出門找超市。哪知那樣的作法在這特立獨行的國度完全不適用。在哈瓦那舊城區(Habana Vieja)的民宅區裡沒有所謂的招牌。這意味著一個社區中大多數人彼此相互認識,才能知道誰家在哪裡提供什麼樣的服務。可憐如我,為了找瓶裝水,在附近用破爛的西文「Donde esta el agua」問路。經過三個人指了不同的方向後,終於找到一位熱心的先生直接帶我去一個不起眼的窗口買水。饒是這樣我也花了將近30分鐘才順利取得珍貴的飲用水資源。

The first thing I did after I checked into a casa was to follow my routine as a traveler and find a supermarket. Who would have known that this idea completely did not work here. In some residential areas of Old Havana, shop signs simply do not exist. This probably means most people in the community know each other, and thus are aware of where to go to find services they need without shop signs. That translated into my predicament as I tried to find some bottled water in the neighborhood. I literally asked for directions with my broken Spanish, Donde esta el agua? Following three kind passersby’s help in three different directions, I found a nice guy who took me to an inconspicuous window where I finally obtained two very precious bottles of water, which took me 30 minutes for this entire water-getting process.
原文載於: 背包客棧自助旅行論壇 https://www.backpackers.com.tw/forum/showthread.php?t=10420951

在找水的途中我看到了麵包店只批量生產吐司和小圓麵包、窄門裡只賣菸和酒的店家、有簡單桌椅的餐廳,以及一目了然的理髮店。這一切都沒有資本主義的招牌來包裝社區的基本運作。也因為對於這裡的無知,我將注意力集中在斑駁街道與頹傾樓房之間發出的聲響上。鍋裡油炸的聲音、收音機裡的音樂、雞啼、車子裡的動感貝斯、路人跟我說hola、先生親吻太太臉頰打波的聲響、吉娃娃的嗷叫,以及路人在街頭講公共電話的聲音—我走在街道的中央聆聽哈瓦那的脈動。當然我所在的這條街絕對不會是觀光客川流不息的Obispo步行街。總之,這裡的許多事物顛覆了我對一個城市的認知。
En route to finding water, I saw a bakery producing only toast and rolls in batch, a shop selling only cigarettes and liquors, a restaurant with simple tables and chairs, and a barbershop that you can see it all at a glance. Everything here ran basically without the packaging of capitalistic shop signs. Because of my ignorance of Cuba, I started to shift my attention to the sounds made between the mottled streets and faded buildings. Deep frying noises from a pan, music from the radio, a rooster’s crowing, pounding bass from a car stereo, hola from a passerby, smackers from a husband to his wife, a chihuahua’s barking, and someone talking on a public phone—I was walking in the middle of a small street listening to the heart beats of Old Havana. Where I was standing is surely not the tourist-flooded Obispo pedestrian zone. Regardless, my perception about what a city ought to be was totally overthrown by the things I experienced initially.

對於古巴的第一印象是新奇且難以用一般邏輯去理解的。我覺得接下來的旅程我應該放下對於一個國家既定的預期。也許這樣才能領會只屬於古巴的不可捉摸的藝術。
My first impression about Cuba was novel yet hard to understand with the common sense. I felt I needed to let go of my expectations for the country. Perhaps, that way I could grasp a touch of the unpredictable art that only belongs to Cuba.

我的文章出處連結:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=320...2392648954&ref=m_notif
















如果您喜歡這篇故事,可以在這裡找到更多相關故事。
https://m.facebook.com/travelsavvy2/?locale2=zh_TW

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舊 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-02, 17:46
文章赞!请问您是乘坐哪一个航空呢?
旅人管管 旅人管管 已通過手機驗證. 門號所屬國家:Taiwan
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舊 回覆: 回复: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 06:33
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作者: chrissywong (原文章)
文章赞!请问您是乘坐哪一个航空呢?
你好~
我先搭機去馬里蘭州待了幾天再搭達美航空經亞特蘭大去哈瓦那。
如果你想減少轉機的話,可以直飛LA, SF和芝加哥。
其中尤以芝加哥長榮機票最便宜。
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舊 回覆: 回覆: 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 07:00
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作者: 旅人管管 (原文章)
你好~
我先搭機去馬里蘭州待了幾天再搭達美航空經亞特蘭大去哈瓦那。
如果你想減少轉機的話,可以直飛LA, SF和芝加哥。
其中尤以芝加哥長榮機票最便宜。
您好,謝謝回覆。我的旅友大多數是馬來西亞護照,在美國轉機應該不方便 會再找其它方便路線
旅人管管 旅人管管 已通過手機驗證. 門號所屬國家:Taiwan
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舊 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 09:39
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作者: chrissywong (原文章)
您好,謝謝回覆。我的旅友大多數是馬來西亞護照,在美國轉機應該不方便 會再找其它方便路線
那加拿大呢?因為在古巴封城之前,加拿大觀光客人數佔第一名。每天都有班機過去。另外也可以試試看阿酋和土耳其航空。
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舊 回覆: 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 09:42
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作者: 旅人管管 (原文章)
那加拿大呢?因爲在古巴封城之前,加拿大觀光客人數佔第一名。每天都有班機過去。另外也可以試試看阿酋和土耳其航空。
If I not mostaken, Malaysian need the Canadian visa too for the transit ‍♀️ We used to used the route from Europe side
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舊 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 09:51
Mistaken i mean, we used to use the Europe route for the transit
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舊 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:34
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If I not mostaken, Malaysian need the Canadian visa too for the transit ‍♀️ We used to used the route from Europe side
So I guess Turkish Airlines or Emirates might be a good choice. But make sure you get the tourist card first. It’s like their visa.
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舊 回覆: 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:36
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So I guess Turkish Airlines or Emirates might be a good choice. But make sure you get the tourist card first. It’s like their visa.
Sure! Will need to study more before visiting. Thanks for the precious info
旅人管管 旅人管管 已通過手機驗證. 門號所屬國家:Taiwan
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舊 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:39
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Sure! Will need to study more before visiting. Thanks for the precious info
Perhaps I can write an article about things you must do before the trip.
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舊 回覆: 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-03, 14:49
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Perhaps I can write an article about things you must do before the trip.
Ya, looking forward to it
Mia princess Mia princess 已通過手機驗證. 門號所屬國家:Taiwan
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舊 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-04, 23:33
謝謝你的分享
看完讓我更想去了
只是要等疫情消退才能繼續計劃了
旅人管管 旅人管管 已通過手機驗證. 門號所屬國家:Taiwan
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舊 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-04, 23:44
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作者: Mia princess (原文章)
謝謝你的分享
看完讓我更想去了
只是要等疫情消退才能繼續計劃了
這時候最適合醞釀出國的情緒。讀一讀旅遊文章。再推薦我其他的古巴文章給妳。
https://m.facebook.com/travelsavvy2
Mia princess Mia princess 已通過手機驗證. 門號所屬國家:Taiwan
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舊 回覆: 古巴哈瓦那的第一印象 - 2020-04-04, 23:54
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作者: 旅人管管 (原文章)
這時候最適合醞釀出國的情緒。讀一讀旅遊文章。再推薦我其他的古巴文章給妳。
https://m.facebook.com/travelsavvy2
好喔 謝謝你
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